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WoodWrite, Ltd. Lathes & Accessories Q & A

! How do I "zero" the lathe after removing or replacing the cutting tool or removing the tool mount?

Standard positioning of the tool mount and cutting tool depends upon the use of a mandrel with a built-in gage point. All WoodWrite, Ltd. mandrels have an integral, machined section with a diameter of 0.332" (8.4mm), just to the right of the collet "stub". This dimension was chosen so that when the cutting tool is just touching the gage point the micrometer dial will be "0". As cutting commences, when the tool is returned to this distance from the mandrel, everything it cuts will be identical in diameter to the gage point. Allowing for 0.002" (0.05mm) to be removed during sanding, the finished barrel will be of the proper dimension.

If, when you turn the micrometer dial so that the tip of the cutting tool is just touching the gage point of the mandrel, the dial does not read "0", loosen the tool mount with the 5/32" (4mm) Allen wrench by loosening the single hex head cap screw on top of the mount. Set the dial by turning the dial in a counter-clockwise direction to "0". (If you overshoot, turn back well past "0" and move towards "0" always approaching from a counter-clockwise direction.) Move the tool mount so that the tip of the tool touches the gage point. The side of the tool mount should be parallel to the side of the saddle upon which it is mounted. Tighten the hex head cap screw to secure the tool mount.

For access, you may find it necessary to remove the dust collection manifold before you adjust the tool mount. To do so, move the saddle to the right until the manifold is clear of the motor. With the same wrench, loosen the single hex head cap screw that secures the manifold to the saddle. Slide the manifold to the rear, and off the saddle. Then, move the saddle (and tool and tool mount) to the left, to work at the gage point of the mandrel. Replace the manifold once the tool mount is properly positioned.

! How do I replace the cutting tool?

Remove the dust collection manifold, as described above. Move the saddle to the left and turn the micrometer dial until the tip of the tool is just touching the gage point of the mandrel. Loosen the two small hex head cap screws on top of the tool mount, using the small (3/32" [2.4 mm]) Allen wrench. Note the orientation of the tool, point downwards. Slide the tool out of the tool mount, leaving the shim beneath the tool in place. Insert the new cutting tool in the same orientation, on top of the shim, with the tip just touching the gage point. Tighten the two small hex head cap screws. Replace the dust collection manifold.

! When I release the tailstock retaining knob and attempt to slide the tailstock one way or the other, it feels stiff and hard to move.

Are you grasping the tailstock up high? Try grasping it low to slide it (just above the bronze bushings that ride on the steel rods.) The tolerances are so tight that, if you grasp the tailstock high, you put some torque on the whole assembly causing it to feel tight. From time to time, it won’t hurt to put a drop or two of light household oil on the steel rods -- and make sure that you have not accumulated any dust or debris on the rods. Wipe them clean with a lightly oiled cloth as needed.

! How do I disengage the drive motor on my Model 360 series lathe?

Should you wish to operate your Model 360 Series mini-lathe without the motorized drive, and use the E-Z Glide™ instead, it will be necessary to disengage the saddle drive motor, which is a simple operation. With a small Phillips head screwdriver, remove the four screws, two in front and two in the rear, of the black box on the left of the lathe. Jiggle the box (it’s deliberately a little tight), and move it away from the lathe and to the left. It won’t go very far as the switch is wired to it, but you’ll have enough room to loosen (do not remove) the two screws that hold the motor mounting plate against the headstock. Pivot the motor plate upward (the upper screw serves as a pivot point; the lower screw is in an elongated hole) to disengage the gears. Tighten the screws and replace the box and screws. Now, the saddle may easily be moved via the E-Z Glide™, as if you were using a Model 160 Series mini-lathe. When re-engaging the motor, rock the EZ-Glide™ knob a bit to make sure the gears are engaged. Be sure to tighten the two 10-32 screws tightly.

!I know wood is a natural product, and may have hidden flaws not visible until I’ve almost completed turning, but I seem to be breaking an awful lot of blanks just as I’m finishing the last cut or two. What’s happening here?

Are you in a hurry? Have you made too few cuts, at too great a depth? You may find it necessary to make a couple of extra cutting passes, not advancing the tool as deeply each time. Have you verified that the tool is properly positioned, with the micrometer dial reading "0" when the tool just touches the mandrel?

! How do I turn a solid piece of wood on my WoodWrite, Ltd. mini-lathe?

Would you believe that it’s as easy as drilling two holes in the ends of the wood you’d like to turn? Let’s presume that you’d like to turn a spindle 8 or 9 inches (200-230mm) long with a diameter of about 2 or 3 inches (50 - 76 mm). Start by removing the mandrel from your lathe. Remove the cone-shaped collet and collet closer nut from the mandrel and set them aside -- you’ll use them again shortly. (To remove the mandrel you’ll need two open end wrenches, 1" (25mm) and 7/8" (22mm). See page II-2.)

Now, mark the center of each end of the piece of wood you intend to turn. Drill a #3 hole (0.213", 7/32", 5.6mm) about 3/4" (19mm) deep in one end of the piece of wood. In the other end, drill a hole on your marked center about ½" (13mm) deep with a 1/8" (3.2mm) drill bit. Pick up a 1/4" x 2" (6.4 x 50mm) "hanger bolt" at your local hardware store. Or, with your next WoodWrite, Ltd. order ask for one, and we’ll send it with your order at no charge.

One end of the hanger bolt is threaded for a 1/4" - 20 nut. Slide that end into the wide end of the collet and insert into the open end of the headstock spindle. Affix the collet closer nut and tighten it with the wrenches. Screw the #3 hole end of the wood to be turned on to the hanger bolt; tighten it all the way up to the collet closer nut. Bring the tailstock up and position the needle center into the 1/8" hole at the opposite end. Be sure the needle center is fully retracted into the housing, for a secure connection. Tighten the tailstock and you’re ready to start turning.

A word of advice, however. If you are turning a large diameter , 2" (50mm) or more, slow down your lathe speed by moving the drive belt to a slower setting (speeds are listed on Chapter 2, page 2). You can use your regular WoodWrite, Ltd. mounted tool to make your first cuts, then switch to the WoodWrite, Ltd. tool rest (KT-11) and do your fancy cuts with regular miniature lathe tools. (Sorby makes a great assortment, available from various woodworking equipment and tool suppliers.)

! How do I turn small bowls on my WoodWrite, Ltd. mini-lathe?

If you think your WoodWrite, Ltd. lathe is just for turning pens, think again. You already own one of the most versatile lathes available, and you may not even realize it! Many of the same features which make WoodWrite, Ltd. lathes the best choice for pen turning (speed, accuracy, rugged construction), also make them an excellent choice for free-hand turning. In this article, we’ll explain how you can turn small bowls, cups and other small round objects using your WoodWrite, Ltd. lathe. All you need is a small Face Plate such as our KT-7301, a set of small hand turning tools and our KT-11 tool rest. Mount the KT-11 tool rest according to the instructions furnished. The KT-7301 Face Plate comes undrilled to allow you to place the mounting holes in any position you require.

Start with a block of wood, band sawed approximately round and screw it to the face plate. Remove the collet and collet closer nut from the drive spindle of your lathe and screw the face plate directly onto the spindle shaft. Make sure it’s tight or it will spin off when you stop your lathe. Next, move your tool rest into the appropriate position and start turning. You’ll appreciate the ease with which you can adjust the tool rest up, down, sideways and in-and-out. In-and-out movement is easily accomplished with the micrometer adjusting knob. Don’t have a small set of lathe tools? We recommend the Sorby miniature set, available from most woodworking supply houses.

! How do I install a 3 or 4 Jaw Chuck?

KT-0301 Four Jaw Chuck & KT-5201 Three Jaw Chuck Chucks are used to hold solid objects on the lathe, when threading onto a mandrel is not appropriate. Both chucks are 3-1/4" (83mm) in diameter and fit the threaded (3/4" - 16) end of the bearing assembly. To install a 4 jaw chuck, first remove the mandrel (if present) and the collet closer nut. Using a 1" (25mm) open end wrench on the bearing retainer nut and a 7/8" (22mm) wrench on the collet closer nut, pull the 7/8" wrench toward you to loosen the nut. Slide the saddle to the right to give yourself some room. Grasp the chuck and thread it onto the exposed threaded end of the bearing assembly. (Be sure not to "cross-thread" the chuck at this point.) Hold the headstock pulley in one hand while tightening the chuck with the other. The jaws operate independently and are adjusted with a 3/16" (4.8mm) Allen wrench (supplied with the chuck.)

Installation of the 3 jaw chuck is slightly different since the jaws adjust together, not independently, by counter-rotating the front and back sections of the chuck against each other. First, open the jaws about ½" (13mm). Then screw the chuck onto the threaded end of the bearing assembly, as described above. The short piece of steel rod provided with the chuck may be inserted into one of the holes in the circumference of the chuck to gain leverage to tighten the chuck in place. Some machining is required to assure precise alignment of the three jaws on this chuck. Details for this step are included in the instructions that accompany the chuck. The 7/64" (2.8mm) Allen wrench provided with the chuck is used to remove, or turn, the jaws, should that ever be desired.

Note: With either chuck be sure to tighten the chuck fully on the headstock spindle to prevent it from loosening and flying off the spindle when the motor is stopped.

! How do I install the tool rest?

The tool rest attaches quickly to the cross feed slide and is used to steady hand held tools during free hand turning. With a rear mounted tool, the tool rest base may be attached to the front of the cross feed slide and left there, even while you are turning pens and pencils with the fixed mounted tool. Its low profile does not interfere with most operations; the tool rest portion mounts and dismounts with the turn of a single set screw, thus enabling you to switch between fixed mount turning and free hand turning in mere seconds. (Note: the cross feed slide is the top portion of the saddle upon which the tool mount is positioned, and which moves forward and back as you turn the micrometer dial.)

To install the tool rest on any WoodWrite, Ltd. mini-lathe, position the base so that the two square nuts slide into the T-grooves on the cross feed slide. With the front edge of the tool rest even with the front edge of the cross feed slide, tighten the two 5/32" socket head cap screws to secure the base in place.

Position the shaft of the T-shaped tool rest in the hole in the base and secure it at whatever height you desire with the socket head cap screw at the end of the base. Move the saddle to whatever position you desire on the lathe bed, left or right, or forward and back (with the micrometer dial). The tool support edge of the T-bar portion of the tool rest should be about 1/4" (6mm) away from, and about 1/8" (3mm) below, the centerline of your work.