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Instructions for Signature Fountain & Roller Ball Pens

Signature™ fountain and roller ball pens use two barrels. The cap (upper) barrel is made from a wood blank 1.84" (46.5mm) long, 5/8" (16mm) square cross section. The body (lower) barrel blank is 2.42" (61.5mm) long, also 5/8" square. Both are drilled 9.8mm (letter "V" drill bit.) WoodWrite, Ltd. pre-cut, pre-drilled wood blanks for Signature™ pens are sold in packages of ten (10) blanks, suitable for five (5) pens. The blanks are marked to show grain alignment. Be sure to maintain the orientation of the top and bottom blanks as you proceed if you desire to have the grain match, top to bottom, in your finished pen. The 9mm lining cylinder for the cap barrel is 1.98" (50.3mm) long, longer than the wood blank by about .14" (3.6mm). This extra brass protrudes from the lower end of the cap barrel (when holding the pen tip downward) and provides support for the three piece decorative ring. The 9mm cylinder for the body barrel is the same length as the wood blank.

The Signature™ fountain and roller ball pens use identical cap and body barrels. Only the interior parts differ, hence it is easy to change a fountain pen into a roller ball, or vice versa, after the pen is completed. This will become obvious as you read the assembly instructions, below.

Barrel Production

Signature™ pen barrels are turned on a 9mm (O.D.) mandrel (FRB-10). The mandrel is specifically designed for this purpose; no bushings are required. To install the 9mm mandrel (and/or to replace the 7mm mandrel), grasp the head stock bearing nut with a 1" (25mm) open end wrench. Grasp the collect closer nut with a 7/8" (22mm) open end wrench. Holding the 1" wrench steady, pull the 7/8" wrench towards you to loosen the collect closer. Remove it, the mandrel and the collet, the conical device on the mandrel. Firmly pull the collet closer nut off the mandrel to remove the collet. Place the nut and the collet on the stub end of the 9mm mandrel and insert it into the bearing. Thread the collet closer nut onto the end of the bearing assembly and tighten it with the wrenches.

Prepare a pair of blanks with lining cylinders, as described in Preparing Wood Blanks, paying particular attention for the upper barrel (9mm short cylinder), that the ends of the barrels are flush. As with all WoodWrite, Ltd. blanks be sure to let the adhesive cure overnight before turning, and, remove excess glue that may have hardened around the exposed end of the brass cylinder.

1. Place the blanks on the mandrel with the cap barrel first - exposed brass end to the right - and then the bottom barrel. Place the small sleeve on the mandrel against the end of the bottom barrel. Secure the sleeve and both barrels with the knurled nut. Be sure the needle center of the tailstock is tightly engaged into the right end of the mandrel before commencing turning.

2. Move the saddle to the left so that the cutting tool is aligned with the gage point of the mandrel. Turn the micrometer dial counter-clockwise until the tool just touches the gage point ("0") then back the tool away by turning the micrometer dial four complete turns clockwise ("0"). If the micrometer dial does not read "0" when the tool is just touching the mandrel, reset the zero point on your lathe.

3. Make your first cutting pass, moving the saddle from left to right. (0.732"[19mm] diameter) You will cut across the gap between the blanks, to turn both blanks to the same dimension.

4. Turn the micrometer dial counter-clockwise one full turn to "0". Make your second cut, moving the saddle from right to left. (0.632"[16mm] diameter)

5. Turn the micrometer dial counter-clockwise one full turn to "0". Make the third cut, from left to right. (0.532" [13.5mm] diameter)

6. Turn the micrometer dial counter-clockwise to "37" and make your fourth cut, from right to left. (0.506" [12.9mm] diameter)

7. Turn the micrometer dial counter-clockwise to "35" and make your fifth cut, from left to right. (0.500" - 0.502" [12.7 - 12.8mm] diameter) You have finished cutting the top barrel; the cutting tool is to the right of the bottom barrel. The remaining cuts will be on the bottom barrel only.

8. Turn the micrometer dial counter-clockwise to "15" and make your sixth cut on the bottom barrel only, from right to left, stopping between the barrels. (0.462" [11.7mm] diameter)

9. Turn the micrometer dial counter-clockwise to "10" and make your final cut from left to right (bottom barrel only). (0.450" - .452" [11.4 - 11.5mm] diameter) Stop the lathe and turn the micrometer dial clockwise three turns to "0". Now, move the saddle to the left end of the lathe bed to be out of your way for smoothing and polishing as described previously. (The tool is positioned to start another Signature™ pen, step 2, above.)

In summary, your tool settings are as follows, starting with the tool just touching the gage point of the mandrel:

CLK 0000 - CCLK 0 - CCLK 0 - CCLK 35 - CCLK 37 (both barrels)

(continuing) CCLK 10 - CCLK 15 (bottom barrel only)

Smooth and polish the barrels.

Pen Assembly

Signature™ fountain and roller ball pens use eight parts in common, comprising the cap and body barrels which form the outer housing of the pen. To make a fountain pen, a nib assembly (one piece) and either a pump or an ink cartridge are inserted in the housing. To make a roller ball pen, a point assembly, roller ball ink cartridge and a spring are inserted in the housing. Switching a pen from one form to the other takes only a few seconds. The components are pictured below.

You have already used the two 9mm lining cylinders in the two wood blanks to make the barrels. To complete the housing, you will need one each of the black end cap, the clip, a brass ferrule and a three piece decorative ring assembly for the cap, and a gold end cap and gold insert for the body. (Note: although one or two Signature™ components may appear similar to WriteMaster™ components, they are not interchangeable.)

1. To make the cap, first press fit the brass ferrule into the top end of the cap barrel (opposite the protruding brass section.) The chamfered end goes into the cylinder (countersunk hole in the ferrule faces outward.)

2. Place a dot of white adhesive (CN-12) or Special T Thick Stuff on the exposed portion of the brass cylinder. Assemble the three piece decorative ring (gold-black-gold) and press fit it onto the exposed portion of the cylinder. Wipe off excess adhesive, if any, with a moist cloth.

3. Check a clip to be sure the angle between the loop and the stem is acute (less than 90E) to ensure proper pressure on the barrel after assembly. Hold the clip over the hole in the ferrule and secure by screwing on the black end cap. The cap is complete.

4. Align a gold end cap, the body barrel and a threaded gold insert. Place a dot of white adhesive (CN-12) or special T Thick Stuff on the flanges of each fitting prior to press fitting the three pieces together. Wipe off excess adhesive, if any, with a damp cloth. The body barrel is complete.

NOTE: Allow the adhesive on the barrel components to set up for several hours before tightening the cap on the body, to prevent the fittings from spinning. After the adhesive has set, firmly attach the cap to the body - you’ll feel a subtle click - to keep the pen from opening by itself.

5. To make a fountain pen, take a pump mechanism and firmly insert the clear (narrow, open) end into the end of the nib assembly, as far as it will go. Turn the black handle on the pump counterclockwise to verify movement of the piston. Screw the whole assembly into the open end of the body barrel. Use of a pump requires bottled ink. If you or your customer prefer not to use a pump, insert the narrow end of an ink cartridge into the nib assembly, instead of the pump mechanism. Ink cartridges and bottled ink are readily available at stationery and other stores. (Note: the ink cartridges provided are about 1" in length. Double length cartridges may also be used as long as they will fit into the nib assembly.)

6. To make a roller ball pen, remove the cap from a roller ball cartridge. Insert the cartridge into a point assembly. Holding the body barrel upright, drop a small spring (larger end in first) into the barrel. Screw the point/cartridge assembly into the barrel. You’re done.

To transform a fountain pen into a roller ball pen, or vice versa, simply reverse steps 5 and 6.

Be sure to include the spring in the roller ball, but exclude it from the fountain pen.

To fill the fountain pen, using the pump, it is necessary to unscrew the nib/pump assembly and remove it from the body barrel. (Do not separate the pump from the nib.) Turn the black handle on the pump counter-clockwise until the piston is at its limit. Insert the nib into the ink (be sure the entire metal portion of the nib is covered ). Turn the handle clockwise, drawing ink into the cylinder. Repeat once or twice for maximum fill. Wipe the nib with tissue to remove excess ink. (Caution: drastic atmospheric pressure changes [in airplane cabins, for example] may cause fountain pens to leak.)